Briggs Stratton Small Engine Parts # 861528 TILLER
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How many times have you tried to steer an accurate compass course, only to find that you wander off a bit too often. Or maybe you are tacking your small sailboat and need a reference when you tack through the wind. Use these three easy navigation compass secrets to boost your sailing skipper skills to the next level.
It’s tough to steer an accurate course when you stare at a sailboat compass for longer than three or four minutes. This causes mental and physical fatigue. Here are three simple techniques that will help you…
* Steer to your destination faster and easier
* Reduce physical fatigue and eye strain
* Land onto a new tack with greater accuracy
1. Pick a Point Ahead in Inland Waters
Steady up on your magnetic course. Pick an object that lines up with the bow pulpit or headstay. This might be a house, dock, marker, or tree on the shoreline. When steady, glance back down at your steering compass. Fine tune your course and realign to the object ahead.
Now, steer on the object for sixty seconds, and then drop your eyes to the compass. Continue this sequence for as long as you stay on this course. When you change to a new sailing course, repeat the method. You’ll be amazed how easy and effortless it will be to steer a course with pin-point accuracy.
2. Follow a Cloud or Star Offshore
Out of sight of land, you will need to use natural objects for steering points. During daylight, use low level clouds–like puffy, cotton-ball cumulus clouds–to steer on. Because clouds move, you’ll need to check the compass more often than in inland waters. Choose a different cloud when necessary to maintain your course.
After dark, choose a star or planet. This method was used for thousands of years. Line up some part of the standing rigging–a shroud or stay–with the pinpoint of light. As before, check your sailboat compass often and change to a different star or planet to keep your course. This method results in much less eye strain and makes night watches easier.
3. Tack with Over-the-Shoulder Bearings
Forget the hassle of mathematics before you tack through the wind. Use over the shoulder bearings for super accurate tacks that will put you right in the groove on the new tack. Stand dead center at the sailboat tiller or wheel and face the bow.
Turn your head to windward and look over your shoulder. Pick a prominent object on the shore (if in inland waters), or cloud or star if offshore. Make the tack and line up on the object. Fine tune your sail trim and object after your tack. It’s fast, easy, and a lot more fun!
Pump up your navigation compass course accuracy with these three simple, fun-to-use techniques. Your small cruising sailboat will be a joy to steer and you’ll arrive at your destination with much less fatigue.
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If you want to start gardening and you are new to it, you may be asking yourself where to start. Starting with the basics will allow you to get outside when the weather is nice and start a garden. You have to educate yourself in what the requirements are for raising and keeping different plants healthy.
You will need to know three basic things. How much water does a plant need. How much sun will the particular plant require. What nutrients the plant will need to survive and thrive.
There are two different ways to go about making sure your plants will thrive. The first is to pick out what plants and/or vegetables you want to grow, then try and make the conditions of your yard suitable to grow them. If you put the plants in an area of your yard, (like against the house), that does not get enough water, you have the option of using a sprinkler or some other type of watering mechanism. You may also have to beef up the nutrients in the soil by using compost or other things. When looking at growing plants in this manner, it really is not the best way to proceed. In fact, it is pretty much the opposite of what you will want to do.
The best way to start off is to Analise the spots where you want to plant. Then you pick the plants that will do best in the conditions that already exist. By doing this you will greatly decrease the amount of work that needs to be put in to keep all of your new plants healthy. Granted, you will still have to do some tender loving care because you will not find all the exact plants that will thrive in your natural soil conditions.
You will also need to determine how much sun or shade a certain area gets if you are going to put plants in it. If you put a plant that requires a lot of sun in a shaded part of your yard, it will get very long trying to reach the spot where the sun is. This will also lead to a lot less flowers or vegetables on the plant.
If you full sun on your yard, put sun loving plants there. If you have shade loving plants, put them in the shade. You do not want to do all the work of planting and preparation only to put the wrong plants in the wrong spots. This will disappoint you and may lead to you not wanting to do a garden again.
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Round Pen Footing on a budget…Yes, I know, it’s quite an oxymoron!. If you have a sand base, you’re very lucky. Build your round pen here and as your budget allows, consider addressing your drainage issues. Otherwise, start with a tiller and till the round pen surface until you have loose soil that’s about 4″ deep.
Tillers can be rented from many do-it-yourself centers for around $40 per day. To make the most out of your tiller dollars, take a look around your yard. Do you have a garden that needs some help? Perhaps you have a flower bed that could use some rejuvenation. You can combine projects to help lower the overall cost the tiller rental and come out ahead!
As the natural round pen footing becomes packed down from use, haul in sand to provide a better cushion layer. While a truckload of sand can cost $100 – $200, it is a worthwhile investment. Not only does it provide an excellent working surface for your horses, but it will also help keep your round pen from getting muddy when it rains. The sand can provide better drainage so you don’t end up with a round pen pond!
You can also try mulch or wood products. Your choice should be based on your climate and your natural soil. Without a proper base in your round pen, you run the risk of losing your cushion layer as it may seep into the natural ground. To learn more about Round Pen Footing, read How to Choose the Correct Round Pen Footing
Let’s examine the financials of our “Round Pen on a Budget” and see where we land.
We’ll use a 50-foot 3-rail Round Pen as our example:
o Posts will cost approximately $70
o Roll of Vinyl Rail (650′) ~ $300
o Other accessories and supplies ~ $80
o Gate ~$50
o Tiller rental ~ $40
Total Cost: $540.00 (and you’ll have around 200′ of vinyl rail left over)
So, don’t let lack of funds stop you from building a round pen. You have a lot of options for controlling costs when building a round pen. Try out this formula and you’ll see that you can still give your horses the safety and comfort they have earned.
Just because your budget may be tight doesn’t mean that you cannot have a beautiful and functional round pen.
Building a Round Pen on an Extreme Budget – Part 1
© 2006 E. Landers
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Constructed of heavy-duty 3in. channel and 2in. x 2in. angle iron for long-lasting durability. Cultivates soil with 9in. x 3/4in. square spikes. Truck ship. U.S.A. Hitch Type: 3-Point, Category Type: 1, Working Width (in.): 60, Blade Type: Spike Tooth
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A garden center is a one-stop shop that can fulfill all of your gardening needs. More than just a nursery or greenhouse providing seeds, plants and seedlings, garden centers offer a vast array of gardening and outdoor living supplies.
In the past one might have needed to visit several locations to gather everything needed to create their ideal home garden. A visit to the nursery to buy plants and seedlings, a stop at the hardware store to buy gardening tools, and a trip to the department store to choose outdoor furniture and grills. Stepping stones and lawn ornaments would be purchased at one specialty store, while mulch and soils would be purchased somewhere else.
The garden center of today features all of that and more. Of course, the primary concern is still on plants and flowers, whether offered as seeds, seedlings or fully grown plants and trees. Each garden center often features its own nursery, offering a variety of plants and flowers. All of the basic gardening necessities can also be easily picked up, including soils, amendments, fertilizers, mulch and decorative stones. Stepping stones, pavers, and edging are also available.
All types of gardening tools may be available at a garden center as well, from tillers down to hand spades, and lawn mowers to hedge trimmers. Shovels, weed-whackers, rakes and hoes can be found, along with garden hose, sprinklers and watering cans.
Garden centers also offer outdoor appliances and furniture. This is where you can buy your barbecue grill, outdoor bar and lawn furniture. You can also purchase fencing, sheds, gazebos, playhouses, and tents. Outdoor “rooms” have become very popular, and many people enjoy decorating their outside spaces much as they would an interior room. Garden centers cater to that need by offering quality furniture sets, decorations and collectibles to set the mood in a garden living space.
Since gardening and lawn care can be complicated and time consuming, many garden centers also offer landscaping services. These services may range from designing gardens and outdoor living spaces to providing the staff to complete all of the landscaping work. They may also offer regular weekly or monthly landscaping services, such as lawn treatments or mowing.
Some garden centers also offer seminars and workshops for the home gardener, or lecture series and book signings by authors of gardening materials. A workshop may offer something a simple as the best time to plant in your climate, or as extravagant as how to plan a garden wedding. Some workshops demonstrate recipes to show how you can use the produce you have grown in your garden.
In some regions, gardening is a year-round activity, but in others it is strictly seasonal. Garden centers in cooler climates often choose to become specialty holiday shops during the fall and winter months. Many garden centers transform at holiday time into magical places. The fall holidays feature pumpkins, gourds, cornstalks and sometimes scary Halloween supplies. The winter holidays give us sparkling ornaments, twinkling lights, trees and swags.
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Pair of stainless steel and plastic pulleys with two stamped stainless steel eye straps. Maximum rope size: 1/4″ (.64cm). O.D. of sheave: 2-5/16″ (5.87cm). 3-3/4″ (9.53cm) overall length.
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Use with tractors in 20-60 HP range. Fits category 1, 2, and 3 tractor hitches. Lifts up to 2000 lbs. Opens to 55in. (inside) and handles logs up to 3-ft. dia. Grapple locks at 90deg for side loading. U.S.A. Hitch Type: 3-Point, Category Type: 1, 2, 3, Required HP: 20 – 60, Capacity (lbs.): 2,000
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Site Preparation
Whether seeding or sodding, home lawn quality is closely tied into how well the soil and site were prepared prior to lawn establishment. Taking shortcuts often comes back to haunt the homeowner in the form of chronic lawn problems, such as thatch, weeds, and disease.
Eliminating weed problems existing on the site is an important first step. Perennial weeds, such as quackgrass, need to be controlled prior to seeding or sodding the lawn. One option is to dig them out by hand, making sure roots and stems are completely removed. Another option is to use a translocated (moves within plant) nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate (sold as Roundup and other trade names). Glufosinate ammonium (Finale) does not translocate, so may only provide limited control of perennial weeds. Both herbicides don’t leave active soil residues that would harm seedlings. Read, understand, and follow all label directions.
Another important step in preparing for lawn establishment is to thoroughly work the soil (by rotary tiller) before seeding or sodding. Amend poor soils, such as heavy clay, by adding organic matter. Sources include compost, rotted manure, peat, and quality topsoil. Incorporate these materials into the existing soil, rather than layering them on the surface. Sand is not suggested as a material to improve clay soils for home lawns. Six inches or more of well prepared soil is suggested.
Soil testing is also suggested prior to establishment. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Office on how to get a soil test. Key information revealed by soil testing includes soil pH and amount of available nutrients such as phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). If major modifications are needed, it is easier to make these prior to establishing the lawn and lawns will get off to a better start when soils are modified prior to establishment. Lawn grasses prefer soil pH values between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic).
Lower soil pH (make more acidic) by adding elemental sulfur. Raise soil pH (make more alkaline) by adding limestone. Only add these materials when soil tests indicate a need and base the rate on soil test results. Starter fertilizers may also be mixed into the soil surface prior to lawn establishment. Starter fertilizers typically have balanced ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N, P, K), such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12. Soil test results may reveal nutrient shortages which would influence how much starter fertilizer is needed.
When preparing the soil, it’s important to establish a favorable final grade. Rough grading should include removal of any rocks or other debris. Avoid burying any construction debris, as this could cause problems for the grass later. Eliminate any depressions or raised areas. Final slopes should be one to two percent away from buildings (one to two feet drop per 100 feet of run) to assure good surface drainage.
Seeding & Sodding Lawns
Once the site is prepared and the proper grasses have been chosen, it’s time to plant the lawn. Deciding whether to seed or sod involves a number of factors, as outlined below. Assuming planting is done properly, the end result of a healthy lawn should be the same whether establishing via seeding or sodding.
Comparing Seeding and Sodding Home Lawns
Advantages of Seeding
* Large choice of species and cultivars to use
* Less expensive
* Lawn develops on site
Disdvantages of Seeding
* Longer period to wait for useable lawn
* Greater chance of weed invasions & erosion
* Relatively short favorable time for establishment
* May need to reseed
Advantages of Sodding
* ‘Instant’ lawn
* Fewer weed invasions
* Longer favorable time for establishment
* Less erosion problems
Disdvantages of Sodding
* Expensive
* Less choice in species and varieties
* Potential soil incompatibility problems
* Rooting speed varies
Timing is critical to assure success when seeding lawns. Mid August to early September is the ideal time for seeding lawns and April would be a second choice. Seeding in late spring through mid-summer often leads to problems. Suggested seeding rates are found below. Exceeding rates may result in weak, spindly seedlings and potential disease development. Newly seeded grasses must receive adequate moisture to assure germination and early seedling survival. Putting down a light straw mulch can help prevent rapid drying and helps keep the soil in place until the grass is established. Use about one bale per 1,000 square feet.
When sodding, purchase quality sod that has been freshly cut. Try to use sod that has been grown on a similar type of soil as exists on the site; most of northern Illinois has mineral soils so try to get sod grown on mineral soil. Install promptly. Stagger edges in a similar pattern as laying bricks. Avoid stretching sod or gaps between pieces of sod.
New sod should be watered thoroughly after installation, and then frequently until the sod is established. Water should go down through the sod to moisten the soil underneath for good root development. Mow newly sodded lawns on a regular basis so that no more than one third of the grass height is removed in a single mowing. A height between two and three inches is suggested. Core aerify a sodded lawn after the sod has firmly rooted to the soil. Don’t fertilize newly sodded lawns until the next suggested time in the normal fertilizing schedule; details on these and other lawn care practices are discussed in other lessons of the Lawn Challenge.
Suggested Seeding Rates for Lawn Grasses
Species in Seed Mix Rate (pounds/1,000 sq.ft.)
Kentucky bluegrass 1 to 3″
Kentucky bluegrass/perennial ryegrass 3 to 4″
Kentucky bluegrass/fine fescue 3 to 5″
Tall fescue 6 to 9″
Gardening is more popular than ever before. Gardeners love the beauty and solitude of working in their gardens, and the fresh flowers, fruits and vegetables are such a satisfying reward. If you are new to gardening and looking for garden hand tool sets, there are a few tools that are great to begin with.
Below is a list of the five tools that you should purchase to begin. I will also explain the basic uses of each of these tools.
1. Soil Rake
Depending on the size of your planting beds, you can purchase a full size or mini sized soil rake. These rakes are a basic essential for removing debris and breaking up and aerating the soil. Mini soil rakes are only a few inches wide, so you can use them more easily in containers or around tight borders.
2. Hoe
Hoes are another basic essential for gardening. Hoes are used to pile soil around the base of plants, to break up and agitate soil, to remove weeds, and to create furrows and trenches for planting seeds or bulbs.
3. Trowel
Another basic, trowels are constantly used by gardeners. There are many different sizes and weights, so select one that feels right in your hand.
4. Cultivator
Both hand cultivators and full-size cultivators are a must. Cultivators penetrate, break up, and aerate tough soil and they are great for removing weeds. Hand cultivators are great for sit-down gardening, and full size cultivators are used for larger areas.
5. Weeder
A weeder is like a long and wide screwdriver that is notched at the end. They are great for penetrating along the roots of dandelions and other weeds, and they are also great for working in sidewalk cracks, between stones, or in tight areas. Weeders make weeding go much more quickly and allow weeds with deep roots to be removed more easily and completely.
Of course, there are many other types of shovels, rakes, tillers, and other helpful garden hand tools, and you can purchase them as you need them. Remember to buy quality tools that will last you for years. Spending a little more when purchasing your tools and then caring for and maintaining your tools during use will allow you to enjoy them for decades.
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